J-22 Coaming Project
The goal is to decide and approve this proposal in days or weeks as opposed to months or years. We are seeking Official International J-22 Class permission to use two simple defined pieces of fiberglass to make old boats a lot more like new boats while doing absolutely NOTHING to affect the performance of the J-22 One design Sailboat. At the very least we would like to secure immediate J-22 Class approval for the installation of a prototype set on a well known sailor's boat so that boat may race in regattas at any level while other sailors have the opportunity to view the modification and either decide to accept or object to its use on any Class Legal J-22. |
Purpose To create a one design retrofit which will allow owners of older J-22s to enjoy a functional, simple to install, maintenance free cockpit coaming. To introduce the coamings to the J-22 class members as an International J-22 Class Approved modification
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Goal of this webpage I want the reader to come to this conclusion: Fred has built a prototype and a set of molds and has built appropriate fiberglass coaming boards for the Racing International J-22. I want to cause solutions to every concern such that: 1. There is no doubt about the legality of the parts for J-22 racing competition. 2. The only remaining concern is making certain any builder who wants to provide these coaming boards will be able to compete on a 100% equal footing with any other builder. 3. Fred wants to be allowed to be a supplier of class J-22 Class legal coaming retrofit kits
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Parameters The coaming must serve the same functions as the wood coaming with respect to keeping water out of the cockpit. The coaming must allow a spinnaker cleat to be mounted in the usual Class Standard Position. The coaming must not change the sailing characteristics of the boat by changing the deck stiffness. The coaming and its fasteners and caulk should weigh about the same as the teak coaming and its fasteners and caulk. The coaming should be durable The coaming should not significantly alter the appearance of the boat. The coaming should be about as comfortable for seating as the new fiberglass molded coamings. The coaming should be of a defined laminate and built to a standard weight. The coaming should be easily installed by a typical boat owner using simple hand tools. Installation of the coaming should not cause any harm to the J-22 and the coaming should be able to be removed by those owners who desire to return their boats to the classic teak coamings.
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Sales pitch from the designer / prototype builder This prototype and mold was built while absolutely convinced I could simply show it to other fans of the J-22and receive instant support for its use. I sail J-22s and have sailed J-22s since the first "two digit" sail numbered J-22s arrived in Austin. I have watched the development of the boat and the racing class and I have maintained literally hundred's of racing J-22s. When J-24s and J-22s first appeared with plastic toe rails, many sailors instantly decided to retrofit their older boats. The change to plastic was well received. sailors do not generally like to maintain teak rails. The original teak toe rails on most Texas J-22s have weathered to the point where the teak plugs are gone and the screws are sticking up above the remaining wood. The first 1200 J-22s came with a teak coaming board on each side of the cockpit. The very newest J-22s have a plastic molding where the original J-22s had teak coaming boards. The teak coaming boards on most of the Texas boats are severely weathered and worn away. Some coamings are fractured and many have uncomfortable or even dangerous splinters waiting to find homes in lines and crewmember's skin and clothing. Replacement of the teak is a difficult process involving a lot of chiseling, a very expensive thick piece of teak, woodworking tools and a skilled artisan.. Owners whose goals include "getting rid of all the #%&@##! teak would love to have a better option than "replacing everything but the coaming boards. No one, according to my limited knowledge, has offered a practical plastic one design retrofit for the J-22 teak coaming rails and the class has not approved any modification what so ever to the teak coamings. (Rumor has it some racing J-22s, without first seeking class approval, have already been modified to match the new decks. I am trying to get ahead of the problem by creating a standard solution.) The owners of the old boats would like to believe their old boats can be competitive with the newer boats. One definition of even competition might be that the owner of an older boat be able to make the older boat "just as pretty" and "just as comfortable" as the newer boats. Specifically? The owner of J-22 number 307 said, "I want plastic so I don't have to maintain old teak ever again. I want something nice to sit on like Mark has on his new boat." (Mark has a deck with a molded coaming) As a long time racer / cruiser of the J-22, I built the exact coaming I believe is appropriate. I built a prototype and I built a mold because I believe I have created the exact thing which solves the problem of "Retrofitting a J-22 coaming with a fiberglass coaming while maintaining the integrity of the One Design Racing J-22." My proposed coaming rail kit will have zero impact on the order of finish in any race at any time. My proposed coaming may cause some extra boats to participate as the sailors will be more comfortable and more likely to enjoy themselves.
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Structure So far I have only built a plug and a mold. I still need to finish the mold by removing a few high spots, polishing it, and waxing it. I believe the laminate will consist of white gelcoat, a thin back up layer of resin and 1/32 inch milled fibers to prevent tiny voids from breaking out, 3 layers of 1.5 ox mat and two strips of 6 inch wide 10 ounce cloth. The cloth would overlap about 3 inches in the entire center of the length of the part. I also plan to install a backing plate pre-tapped for #10 fasteners appropriate for a Harken 150 cam cleat. (or maybe just include the preinstalled cleat)
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Installation The plan is based upon simplicity and the minimum tools a J-22 sailor may own or reasonably purchase. I believe it would be best to remove the screws and chisel away the old rail before installing the new fiberglass rails. The new rails are constructed such that a person could simply grind away about 1/2 inch of the old teak rail and install the new fiberglass rail over the old shortened teak. We have already tested our concept by using a Surform brand tool on another J-22. In fewer the fifteen minutes of work, we had the old teak sufficiently ground away to drop the new fiberglass over the old teak. The new rails should be adequately mounted using 3M 5200 sealant and six or seven self tapping #10 truss headed stainless screws.
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Fred's Proposal I am not an authorized J-22 sailboat builder. For the last 30 odd years I have made a substantial part of my living by maintaining various "J" racing boats. I have no real reason to change that relationship described as "You build them and I fix them." I also understand that other suppliers have built many retrofit J-22 racing items and few if any have bothered to do as I am doing and seek approval before producing and selling parts for racers. I have dabbled in the creation of J boat retrofit parts and even sold many racing motor mounts for installation at the factory on J-24s. Link to photos My initial target guess price for this kit would be $600. I would happily build and sell the parts and maintain one design quality control as described below and for the short term, I will even try my guess price as the officially set price. No other part builder original or aftermarket is building to an approved set price . ( $650 with preinstalled Harken 150 cam cleats.) I would initially build and ship One design Standard parts to any builder for a set $400 plus packing and shipping price. I will build a set of tooling for any Designer and Builder Authorized manufacturer to use. That tooling would be just as the molds in the photos below. Mine have orange tooling gelcoat, at least 6 oz of mat and Iso resin, a layer of 2 mil Coremat, one layer of 1.5 oz mat, another layer of Coremat and at least 6 oz of mat. I tried to keep the Coremat away from the edges of the molds. I believe I could build a set of molds for $1000. That number may cover only the labor and not materials and shipping or perhaps I could accomplish the entire task for under $1000. Particulars could be worked out if and when anybody seriously asks for a set of molds but I am willing to guarantee delivery in the US for under $1500.
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Fred's Political View Background: The reader should be told I have served as a measurer in various sailboat classes since I was a teenager. I have also made a living both building boats and maintaining boats. Most of my life's work experience relates to maintaining sailboats that also race. I have always worked within the One Design Rule system for any class where I believe improvements or modifications should be approved. Specific to J-22s: This modification is not significant to the performance of the boat. The only reason any J-22 owner would make this modification would be looks and comfort. My only reason for seeking approval is a strongly held PERSONAL belief that ANY modification no matter how insignificant to ANY one design boat should be approved in advance of its implementation. I sincerely believe the officers of the International J-22 Class should have no objections and quickly and simply "rubber stamp" this proposed fiberglass coaming. I have no idea why anyone would possibly object to this proposed coaming. I am only seeking approval because, I do not believe it is proper for anyone to modify the boat in any way without prior International J-22 Class Association approval. Whining about reasonableness: The plastic mounting blocks and extra pulleys for cross sheeting the jib sheets certainly affect the performance of the boat. I certainly would have asked before installing anything like them. The specially shaped custom blocks are not only being allowed, they are being supplied by after market suppliers as well as the builders. I am doing everything I know how to do to properly play within the intent and the letter of the rules. it certainly seems reasonable to expect superlative consideration for my superlative efforts. |
Photos
The gallery below is captioned in an attempt to make everything clear. You can click on any image to see a large version. I am here and have already seen the parts. Therefore I don't really know what you cannot see or understand. Please ask questions freely.
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You can try the phone but I rarely am able to pick it up and talk. sanders are louder than phones. I don't stop when painting. I don't take a cell phone to lunch, sailing, the gym, or bed. Please leave a message and appropriate call back hours>>512-769-4466 |